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 Posted - August 14 2013 : 07:41:49 AM
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Once again, novice repair question… In process of resurrecting old Marx diesel switcher, I broke the plastic frame that held what I believe to be the "brushes" against the "motor/commutator". Now I've recently seen the Model Power porter diesels. The question I have is would I be able to replace the old broken Marx motor with the new Model Power one? Basically taking the Marx diesel switcher shell and popping it onto the Model Power porter base/motor/trucks. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
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Edited by - artskull on August 14 2013 07:42:15 AM
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Posted - August 15 2013 : 10:56:50 PM
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So you have one of the Marx 3 inch long Hustler-type switchers, the 2-axle type? I have many Hustler type switchers, and a few Marx, a few Model Power, I can check for you to see if they will interchange parts, sometimes they will. Model Power acquired some of the Marx line, I have bought replacement Marx HO trucks for freight cars from Model power because they remade the cars and have the exact same solid pin truck mounting like Marx had.  Post a picture of your Marx switcher if you can, and I'll see if any of my other switcher's parts will transfer.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 16 2013 : 1:43:01 PM
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This is a photo of the Marx switcher in question. KILLED me that I had this guy 90% running and was just doing final cleaning when plastic inside near motor just snapped.
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Posted - August 17 2013 : 09:10:19 AM
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quote:
This is a photo of the Marx switcher in question. KILLED me that I had this guy 90% running ... when plastic inside near motor just snapped.
Originally posted by artskull - August 16 2013 : 1:43:01 PM
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Yeah, old age can really hurt the plastic parts. I think my Marx is actually like this blue one, too! I have a few others different colors as well. I'll check today sometime to see if I can find them, I'm pretty sure I have them easily findable for a change. Will let you know what I find out.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 17 2013 : 12:10:33 PM
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Thanks Jerry! Looking forward to hearing what you find out.
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Posted - August 26 2013 : 9:07:26 PM
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Ok, 'skully, here's what I've found out. Bottom line, might be compatible IF you do some shell mods. Not an exact 1 to 1 swap, unfortunately, but the inner dimensions are exact, if you are willing to trim some plastic and drill some holes in the ol' Marx shell to make the Porter unit fit, it should work. Here's the pictures...
  
Note that the Porter uses 4 holes, 2 front and rear, to mount power chassis, while the Marx uses HUGE plastic nubs on the sides to hold on the shell. Very different mounting systems.
  
As you can see, the side ribs on the Marx shell would have to be removed to allow the newer Porter chassis to slide up into the shell. And 4 holes drilled to accommodate the mounting plastic protrusions front and back. Not impossible, but will take some effort.
  
I used the broken chassis to remove the motor assembly, I didn't want to break the nice blue shell if I could help it. It was still a fight to get the power truck out!
If you have a broken shell already, I'd say go ahead and modify it for the newer power. Can't lose anything!  And it would save a piece of history. That's what's fun about this hobby to me, you can modify antique stuff when it's broke, as no one else wants it anyway, and have fun with it still. 
Hope this helped some, I only have maybe 3 Marx Hustlers ( I think I have a green one somewhere ... ), so I'm not planning on modifying any right now. Will keep them intact as possible. Any really edge-broken shells I'd modify in a heartbeat, though! 
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 26 2013 : 10:20:36 PM
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quote:
If you have a broken shell already, I'd say go ahead and modify it for the newer power. Can't lose anything! And it would save a piece of history. That's what's fun about this hobby to me, you can modify antique stuff when it's broke, as no one else wants it anyway, and have fun with it still.
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â August 26 2013Â :Â 9:07:26 PM
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Yup...had a ball modifying my damaged one to look like a switcher set up to trip street signals on an electric interurban line...
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Posted - August 26 2013 : 11:19:26 PM
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That is really cool, Shay. Very clever. Looks like you got the pole from an AHM trolley. 
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Posted - August 26 2013 : 11:56:03 PM
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| I really like that trolley pole, that's a neat idea.
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Posted - August 27 2013 : 7:53:13 PM
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| thanks guys...yes, it's an AHM pole I had in the junk box. The SP had several switchers that did street work in parts of the Pacific Electric interurban route. They didn't actually draw juice, they tripped signals as they went about their business, making for a rather unique look.
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Posted - August 28 2013 : 12:47:37 PM
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A HUGE THANK YOU to Jerry for his unbelievably detailed reply to my original posting/question. In my quest to resurrect my old HO trains, I really appreciate his sharing of knowledge and info to all the members here on TycoForums. I'm off to find a Model Power porter diesel donor to bring my Marx diesel switcher back to life! THANKS!
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Posted - September 30 2013 : 8:57:40 PM
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quote:A HUGE THANK YOU to Jerry for his unbelievably detailed reply to my original posting/question. .... I'm off to find a Model Power porter diesel donor to bring my Marx diesel switcher back to life! THANKS!
Originally posted by artskull - August 28 2013 : 12:47:37 PM
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Or, you could buy another Marx engine to donate the chassis. If you're interested. I found two of these green Marx engines at my train shop, I worked on this one on Saturday ( didn't break the shell getting the motor out, whew! ), needed some lube and contact work, but runs decent now, noisy as all get-out but does go back and forth at will now. If you're interested, I'll ask how much he wants for it.
Sorry I haven't done much recently on the new Marx replacement board project, work, my wife's nagging about cleaning out our driveway/house, and other priorities keep interfering. I'll try to get back on that soon. Even my work is picking up some, so I don't have as much free time now as I did a few weeks ago. Oh well.
Anyway, here's the engine he has I worked on.
Jerry
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Posted - October 07 2013 : 07:24:13 AM
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Jerry - No worries on replacement board project. I certainly understand other "priorities" (day job and fatherhood keep me busy too!). If your shop still has those green hustlers available let me know. I keep losing out on ebay auctions for them. Figure one or other I'll get my old Marx hustler running again; just need patience. - Chris
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Posted - October 07 2013 : 2:26:14 PM
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Shay,
I like the trollet pole idea too, and it looks good1 Almost a "believable" addition to this little guy!
wonder......how that look on an Athearn hustler!?
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - December 05 2013 : 07:41:40 AM
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So… I finally got replacement brush holder board, got it installed, and re-soldered wiring. Now the question is… what is the best lubricant to use on the gears. Any suggestions???
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Posted - December 13 2013 : 8:03:05 PM
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I ended up using Labelle 106 grease for the plastic gears. It's only taken a year, but old #10 is up and running again. Just in time for Christmas! Thank you Tyco forum members for your help and inspiration in keeping motivated to complete this restoration.
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Posted - December 13 2013 : 8:34:39 PM
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Sorry I couldn't spend more time on the board replacement idea, it's still on the back burner at the moment. Glad you got your Green Machine back in working order finally!
Jerry
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Posted - December 25 2013 : 8:54:51 PM
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quote:Sorry I couldn't spend more time on the board replacement idea, it's still on the back burner at the moment. Glad you got your Green Machine back in working order finally!
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â December 13 2013Â :Â 8:34:39 PM
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I've been reading entries on this forum almost all day, and really enjoying it. My only problem seems to be a lack of time to look at all of them. Great work, fellas
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Posted - January 05 2014 : 1:37:06 PM
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Here is Marx switcher with replacement plate bought from vendor on ebay. I've lubed up the gears, cleaned the brushes but it doesn't seem to want to run. Anywhere on this old soldier that needs oiling? I've read enough on the forums that oil should not go near the brushes and commutator. Any pointers that I might have missed are appreciated.
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Posted - January 05 2014 : 3:14:52 PM
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quote:
Here is Marx switcher with replacement plate bought from vendor on ebay. ... but it doesn't seem to want to run. Any pointers that I might have missed are appreciated.
Originally posted by artskull - January 05 2014 : 1:37:06 PM
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Ok, first question - are you trying to "run" it on the track as the test? My first test is ALWAYS jumper power directly to the brush arms, and see if the motor will run freely with direct power. if not, then you've got direct motor problems. If it runs fine with direct power applied to both brush arms, then the problem is with the pick-up, either frame ground or wire to other side, or the axles/wheels.
Sequence to test
1- direct power to brush arms , does it run freely YES or NO
- if YES, move on to 2
- if NO, check gaps in copper plates for crud buildup, or motor could have a bad / shorted armature winding
2 - apply power to wheels, does it run freely, YES or NO
- if YES, it must be good.
- if NO, try using a small slender metal rod on the power wire clip, and try to make contact with the contact that supplies power pick-up to the axles. Does it run better, YES or NO
- if YES, then the contact is not doing it's job, might be bent and not enough force on the wheel.
- if NO, the wheels could be dirty or oxidized, and need serious cleaning.
Only other problem it could be is that the magnet has lost some of it's charge, and can't make the power anymore. Also remember that this power truck is outside of it's shell, and no extra weight, it may not run by itself on track without additional weight to help it make rail contact for a good electrical connection. Some motors are so lightweight that they just won't run without the shell weight attached. Also are you using brass track or nickel-silver to test? Make sure the track is cleaned/shiny if brass, or it won't conduct properly. Brass oxidation is NON-conductive, nickel-silver track oxidation is conductive. So clean brass track is essential if you are using that.
Jerry
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Posted - January 09 2014 : 08:03:21 AM
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Jerry - Thank you once again for your detailed response. Your help and advice on this restoration project has been invaluable. It's back to the workbench for me… Thanks! - Chris
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Posted - January 18 2020 : 11:11:22 PM
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| Artskull what does that black wire running over the top get soldered to? I have Marx switcher and the wire is loose, can’t figure it out and don’t want to fry it.
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Posted - January 19 2020 : 10:46:20 AM
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| Great repost!
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