|
Posted - June 25 2013 : 10:25:59 AM
|
I'm looking for a copy of instructions for securing Cary F7 A & B shells to Athearn frame. Thanks and good health! ottb
Edited by - offtrackthoroughbred on June 25 2013 10:26:52 AM
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 125 ~
Member Since: November 26 2009 ~
Last Visit: April 21 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - June 25 2013 : 10:32:53 AM
|
hi offtrackthoroughbred,are you sure you did not mean f3 ken
http://www.hoseeker.net/CareyInformation/carycatalog1983page02.jpg
Edited by - catfordken on June 25 2013 10:33:19 AM
|
Country: United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - June 25 2013 : 12:41:13 PM
|
Offtrack, I have a couple of Cary FTs on Athearn Blue Box chassis. They were built when the only FTs were the AHM short nose models, and the Brass units. They are real stump pullers. I ran them a lot back then. The only problem I had was the split axle gears would fail a lot sooner than a regular plastic body super F7. I now run Bachmann and Stewart units. Just FYI Regards, John *********************************************************************
Formula for success: Rise early, work hard, strike oil. <> J. Paul Getty
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 886 ~
Member Since: January 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: December 16 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - June 25 2013 : 5:46:24 PM
|
I have to agree with JRG! I got a Fairbanks-Morce H10-44 that's on an Athearn blue box SW-7 frame, and it would pull stumps! I use it at the club to haul 3 track cleaners around all coupled together at the same time and a few passes on it cleans the track well, BUT I was worried that it make the 2% grade.....Without slipping a wheel as there is a lot of drag on running 3 of the cleaners at once!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 2911 ~
Member Since: March 26 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 14 2014
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - June 25 2013 : 11:05:46 PM
|
The Cary shells are F3 A B B; the Athearn chasis are F7. The instruction sheets went missing. I have "afixed" Athearn F7 power chassis to die-cast Varney F? units by drilling holes in the chassis aligned to epoxy 2-56 threaded offsets inside the shells. But I presume there is a more elegant way to mount the Cary F3 shells. I have several Cary shell projects going ( no time to work on any of them; multi-year projects ); a FM H-10-44, a SW-?, E?A & B. I want all powered; damn the power-pack: full speed ahead! The Athearn chassis are plentiful (but not so cheap as they once were) so I'm not too concerned about the running gear as much as work put into shell cosmetics. The Cary SW? shells have engineered methods for mounting to the frame; The FM H-10-44 needs some help to stretch distance between front and rear trucks of an Athearn SW chassis. The E? units are on the back burner; I may use ModelPower, which fits well, or newer LifeLike chassis which will need some "grind to fit" work and I hope my foam layout base does not crush.
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 125 ~
Member Since: November 26 2009 ~
Last Visit: April 21 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - June 26 2013 : 03:47:45 AM
|
offtrackthoroughbred,
Well on the Cary shells, you might have a few of the following:
Fairbanks-Morse H10-44 OR H12-44, can be used for both! EMD E-6 to E-8 A & B units were made. EMD SW-1500 Mounts to a Athearn SW-7 frame. EMD FT A & B units mounts to Athearn F-7 frames.
With these to date, I have built a H10-44, an a ALCO S-2, AND I have yet to build a SW-1500.....
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 2911 ~
Member Since: March 26 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 14 2014
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - March 29 2015 : 6:28:58 PM
|
What are my chances of using my Athearn SD40 chassis for an Athearn PA-1 shell ? I know some work will be necessary, but is there anything that positively keeps this from happening?
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 11 ~
Member Since: March 29 2015 ~
Last Visit: June 04 2015
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - March 29 2015 : 8:32:25 PM
|
Is there some reason you don't just use a PA chassis?
Randy
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 358 ~
Member Since: April 30 2011 ~
Last Visit: April 22 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - March 29 2015 : 9:08:46 PM
|
My first step would be to go to TrainWeb and find line drawings of the two engines. Put those line drawings into MS Paint and compare the wheel bases. I usually download the drawings {right click and copy} and cut and paste side views in paint so I can compare the wheel bases. Drawings need to be the same scale.
Note: All models are not built to scale!
Regards, John
Before running a friend's locomotive, locate the nearest door, and have an escape plan if anything goes wrong. <> Junior
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 886 ~
Member Since: January 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: December 16 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
Posted - March 31 2015 : 12:57:08 AM
|
About zero, and so much work when PA chassis can be so readily had I don't know why anyone would bother. The SD40 truck spacing is way off for the PA, the sideframes are wrong, they don't swap back and forth.....
I just sold an unpowered PA for $20 a few weeks back. I see them fairly often for not a lot of money.
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 956 ~
Member Since: January 27 2008 ~
Last Visit: May 27 2016
|
Alert Moderator
|
|