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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - January 28 2016 :  1:55:33 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
So, I've got 'round to making some actual progress on that tenderless Mantua Pacific I bought.


Thanks to a gap between the front of the boiler and the chassis, I had the space to put an insulated mount for over-the-treads wipers. So now the loco actually has power and I don't have to worry about tender pickup.

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - January 30 2016 :  06:13:57 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist

Been making good progress on painting it up in my chosen color scheme. Also, the light bulb's wire accidentally got tugged out of where it was inserted and I haven't reattached it yet.

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Barry
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 Posted - January 30 2016 :  5:32:55 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Barry to Buddylist
Interesting color scheme Zelda. Keep the photos comin'.
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - January 30 2016 :  8:53:28 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
I will. How do you think the paint on the plastic wheels turned out?
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trainman280
Little Six

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 Posted - February 02 2016 :  3:18:56 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add trainman280 to Buddylist
Not-so-great, because you brush painted acrylic paint on, right?
acrylic paint won't stick well to plastic, especially oily plastic.

For the boiler: you should have stripped the paint (Lacquer thinner), soak it in soapy water(to remove finger/ other oils), then mask, prime and then paint it, all with spray cans

For the wheels: you should soak them in soapy water, then mask the edges and then prime and paint, with spray cans.

Charles

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 02 2016 :  3:49:26 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
"Acrylic paint won't stick well to plastic"? It's ENAMEL paint that won't stick well to plastic. If you're talking about the black showing? That was actually drybrushed on.

And FYI, I did wash the wheels before painting.


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Edited by - toptrain on April 26 2016 08:36:15 AM
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toptrain
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 Posted - February 04 2016 :  3:09:20 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add toptrain to Buddylist
Zelda. I like the maroon on the drivers most likely because it looks like Erie maroon. A favorite. Your doing the pastel colored freight cars. Looks kike you may have a little girl or niece . It is a lot of work your doing .
frank

toptrain

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 04 2016 :  7:54:03 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Actually, this is for me. I was quite taken with the colors of the "Lady Lionel"/"Girls' Train" set when I saw a restored vintage example on display shelves at a now-closed model train store, and so I've wanted to have a few pink steamers of my own. In addition to the pastel freight cars, I'm also doing up my Roundhouse Pullmans in a PRR-inspired livery because that goes with the pink nicely.

The wheels only look maroon in that shot because it's just the first layer of paint. I'm actually making them red, since it's a classic color for American steam loco wheels and to me works better with the pink than just leaving the wheels Vanderbilt black as Lionel did.

What do you think of my pickup solution?

Sorry for my outburst, I was projecting a bit of frustration with someone else who was insisting that spray cans were the only way to paint models and that brushes never worked ever and who tried to tell me not only how I should be enjoying the hobby but how I should be living my life.

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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 04 2016 :  8:27:53 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
Good grief Zelda - you requested opinions and got an honest one.

Here is another:
Spray paint and/or airbrushing are certainly not the only way to paint, but in this case they would give you better results.

Brushes work well for fine detail work, weathering, dry brushing....but past that they give limited results.

Have you tried painting with spray methods before? Try it, you might be surprised.


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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 04 2016 :  9:31:15 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist

[/u]

I have tried spraypainting before. And I have generally not been happy with my results. Staying tacky for far too long, puddling in the grooves and in the sculpted details, pealing off in a tearing hurry if not sealed, not working worth a rat's fart on certain kinds of plastic (PVC plastic is right out with any spraypaint, and the metallic stuff won't dry right on ABS, etc)... And that's not even getting into the fact that spraypainting stuff requires a larger area to paint and set it undisturbed while it dries, however long that may take. About the only area we have I can use for that is the garage, but so much of the space in there is occupied by the shelves, the washer, dryer, and deep-freezer, and the bicycles that I can't really set something to dry without its being in the way. Between that and the mixed, mostly-disappointing results I've had with spraypaint...Plus it's $5 a can and can't be mixed... It just doesn't seem worthwhile to me.

Regarding brushes, the idea that painting with a brush cannot give smooth results is complete and utter bunk. I realize I have not exactly gotten the smoothest results in the picture here, but plenty of people have gotten perfectly fine results through hand-painting.

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Edited by - toptrain on April 26 2016 08:35:34 AM
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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  08:30:20 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
"Less is More" when it comes to spray painting. Most all of the issues you mentioned can be attributed to technique - too much paint applied in one heavy coat will result in puddling, staying tacky too long, and being prone to peeling off after it's dry. Try several light coats until you get the level of coverage you need. And use a plain old cheap or second-hand hair dryer to speed drying time.
Some paint, especially glossy paint, does take a very long time to dry. I hate that because I'm impatient to get on with the project. Regular old flat Testors in a rattle can dries fast when aided with a hair dryer. Think ahead, figure out a way to move your item to an out-of-the-way safe space after it's sprayed and leave it there a couple or three days...or until it can be handled.
As for different plastics not working - I have yet to find a plastic that won't accept spray paint. Not saying it's impossible to happen, just that I do a lot of painting with a lot of different manufacturers stuff. Granted some paints stick better than others, but none that outright reject it - no more or less than it would with brush paint. Very important to prep the surface before painting, removing all the oily residue and dust. A gas duster (canned air) is good for giving the surface a final blast to remove dust or sanding particles.

Yes finding a space to paint is a challenge. Can't always go outside because of the weather and invariably on even the best, most dry and still day a dang bug will land on your perfectly sprayed piece. Plus there is the issue of ventilation and all that. I have a space in the basement that I use, where the fumes and overspray are not an issue. Not perfect but it works. Using an airbrush with acrylics makes that option better on the fumes - but it is an fairly significant investment when you're on a budget. Worth every penny though.

Last word on brushes - yes they are indispensable for modeling. I use them about every day. But only for details, never large areas like an entire locomotive or car. Maybe it's possible to have a good result with the right paint but I have never been able to do it. If it's thick enough to provide proper coverage in one coat, it's too thick to flow enough to not leave brush marks. If it's thin enough to flow without brush marks, it won't cover correctly and will require multiple coats...which defeats the purpose. Badger Modelflex is a perfect example - the stuff won't cover crap with a brush, it's made thin for airbrushing - for the purpose of allowing all the molded details of your piece show through.

The above is what has worked for me. As always, if something works for you - do it!

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  10:00:13 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
PVC plastic is the soft plastic that, for example, action figures' swords (and usually any pointy bits on them) have to be made out of. Spraypaint won't bind properly to that, and it will usually crack and flake off. While still being tacky to the touch and getting dirty. I will freely admit that some of my issues were due to technique, but I also had them happen sometimes when I was taking it slow.

I've found that Apple Barrel and Craft Smart, and now DecoArt, generally give good results when shaken properly (Americana on the other hand... Never. Buying. That. Again. Even for painting a picture).. Only takes a few coats for full coverage, generally turns out smooth unless I get impatient and put too much on at once. Which is what happened with the pink in the photo, actually. Plus it was a custom mix, and it turned out I needed to thin it a bit. The plastic wheels, which I painted silver and then drybrushed some black onto, are the only things in that photo I was satisfied with - I actually removed and redid the pink in several spots. To be honest, the progress pic was mostly just a show of "Yeah, I'm painting it pink". I just haven't put a new one up because I've been preoccupied with college work and with looking for a piece of the cab roof that was hanging by a thread when the model arrived so that I can glue it back on.

I've gotten good results from brush painting for coverage and I've seen great results (If you want to see some, Google image search "Hand-painted model" and see what comes up). All the same, I do have plans to invest in an airbrush.

Incidentally, brushes are not my preferred tool for details, I actually found even my tiny-tipped brush to be a bit clumsy for that. Toothpicks, however, work a treat.

Stand by for a new progress photo, I hope to have one up by tonight.

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oldtimer52
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  11:07:43 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add oldtimer52 to Buddylist
Ok. I gotta put in my two cents here. Regarding spray painting. Some say that you cannot
get a nice even coating with brushes. I've done 2 kitbashed 4-4-0s and both were completely
painted with a brush. My Christmas train was also hand brushed, for the most part. I did
use spray paint for the white due to the amount that had to be applied and the masking
involved. I also did some spray painting on my buildings as the material was a little more
absorbent and brush painting would have left too many "strokes" on the surface.

There are times when spray painting can be a blessing, but, there are also times (as was stated
about pooling and obscuring details) when it can be a curse. However, when you have a large,
masked area to be painted, spray painting can be a real blessing. Maybe it's like everything
else, MODERATION, technique and materials/situation. That's just my two cents (Indian head of
course).
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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  12:27:31 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
oldtimer - all good points there. And your Christmas Train did look very good - I remember you saying at the time that you'd brush painted some of it and thought it was an exceptional job.

Really there are as many techniques as there are people. When I find something that works for me I tend to stick to it religiously.

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catfordken
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  1:22:51 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send catfordken a Yahoo! Message  Add catfordken to Buddylist
its not how you do it,but how it looks,we are not all perfectionists although we would like to think that what we did was perfect,its a toy train,and as long as those who create it are happy,that's what matters most,enjoy it,not criticise it ,have fun guys,i do
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scsshaggy
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  1:26:04 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add scsshaggy to Buddylist
I've found out that the acrylic model paints tend to first form a skin when they're drying. That skin contracts a little and smooths out brush strokes. If the paint gets old and gummy and has to be thinned to be applied, it can crack and check as it dries.

Black paints have always covered very well for me. For other colors, I've found it best to prime the surface gray first. Then the colors seem to cover well. If I put a color like red or yellow over black or over a lettered surface, the background shows through and it doesn't seem like any amount of paint will truly cover.

For big surfaces, the flat artist paint brushes with a squared off end are a huge blessing. They do a better job than the little round brushes. The little round brushes work very well around small details, edges, etc.

For painting metal, I usually first put a coat of solvent based paint on and put acrylic paint over that. I've been using Floquil gray primer, which is not a true primer, just a flat paint the color of gray primer. Some day I plan to experiment with true primers. If this stuff gets old and gummy and is re-thinned, it doesn't adhere as well as it did when fresh. You have to let solvent paints dry until the solvent smell is pretty much gone before applying acrylics over them. This is at least overnight.

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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 05 2016 :  1:57:28 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
quote:
For other colors, I've found it best to prime the surface gray first. Then the colors seem to cover well. If I put a color like red or yellow over black or over a lettered surface, the background shows through and it doesn't seem like any amount of paint will truly cover.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - February 05 2016 :  1:26:04 PM



I found this out the hard way, painting a Santa Fe yellow stripe over Santa Fe red. It will cover - eventually - but when I was done the yellow wanted to come up with the masking tape because it was that thick and had bonded to it. Had to very carefully score the edge with a sharp exacto. After giving it a gloss coat, it looked fine - but I didn't do that again.
The fix for me on later projects like that was to spray a coat of reefer white first over the dark base paint. For some reason, Badger Modelflex reefer white is very opaque and covers darks well - well enough that the yellow only needed a couple of light coats.

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 10 2016 :  02:48:27 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Welp, I've started work on scratchbuilding the pilot. Here's a test-fit of the base:

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Barry
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 Posted - February 10 2016 :  2:53:57 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Barry to Buddylist
Keep the photos comin' Zelda. I'm enjoying seeing this machine progress.
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dastumer
Switcher

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 Posted - February 10 2016 :  10:16:49 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add dastumer to Buddylist
Neat. Did you make that from a plastic carton?
-Peter
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 10 2016 :  11:56:30 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Close. I use used-up non-reloadable gift cards, expired debit cards, credit cards sent in mail offers, etc. as sources of plastic.
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 14 2016 :  06:25:18 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
So, working on building a tender now too:

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Barry
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 Posted - February 14 2016 :  12:04:29 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Barry to Buddylist
Continuing to enjoy your build Zelda. Diggin' the way you use those plastic cards for construction. Looks nice and straight.
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trainman280
Little Six

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 Posted - February 14 2016 :  6:23:31 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add trainman280 to Buddylist
Im sorry, for being a mean... :(
What I mean't by arcrylics dont stick, I was trying to say that they tend to drip too much, making it look bad. Plus brush marks don't exactly look good, you gotta admit...

But, for example, I bought a horribly hand painted Bachmann 2-8-0 4 days ago, and so I decided to paint it myself.
Here's what I did:
1. Disassemble everything
2. soak all parts (Except screws, motor, and electronics) in 91% isopropyl alcohol. THIS IS TO REMOVE PAINTS
3. Brush with toothbrush to remove all paint. Use toothpick for little unreachable spots.
4. Soak everything in warm soapy(Dish soap) water. THIS REMOVES THE WHITISH STAINS FROM DRIED ALCOHOL AND ALSO REMOVES ALL FINGER OILS FOR MAX PAINT ADHESION
5. Mask needed places (Like electrical conducting places)
6. Use gloves to handle the model from here on.
7. Spray a layer of primer (Spray can or air brush) ****A $20 airbrush is better than a"rattle can"
Spray a layer of Black (Spray can or air brush)
8. Spray a layer of matte finish (Spray can or air brush)
9. Reassemble
10. Spray a gloss coat on places where you have to decal.
11. Decal
12. spray a matte finish on the decal

See?!?!!
These are the steps to make a professional-like model :D

Hope you understand what I meant...
Charles

If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed.
Edited by - trainman280 on February 14 2016 6:26:14 PM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 14 2016 :  7:32:58 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
The thing about hand-painting is that you can easily control for drips. You can sponge or wipe away excess. Spray paint can drip and puddle too, even if sprayed on in thin coats, and the distance involved when using a rattle can (and the difficulty in trying to lift or steady the thing without leaving fingerprints in the paint) makes it trickier to deal with. Even when I haven't sprayed too much on at once, I've found it tends not to play nice when there's a lot of molded detail.

With hand-painting and acrylics, a decent quality brush and making sure the paint isn't too thick do wonders for hiding the brush strokes, if you take it slow and go one thin coat at a time. And then finish will pretty much completely hide the strokes.

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trainman280
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  2:02:57 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add trainman280 to Buddylist
Spray paint does NOT drip if:
1. The surface is clean (Alcohol and soap wash before painting)
2. you prime the need-to-be-painted surface area first
3. Paint from 1 feet away.
4. you use rustoleum or valspar(NOT KRYLON)
5. Shake can for 1 min before painting

But I dont think you did any/all of these steps when you spray painted.

If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed.
Edited by - trainman280 on February 15 2016 2:05:00 PM
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trainman280
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  2:07:49 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add trainman280 to Buddylist
Oh yea and I would suggest you to disassemble the motor and remove all the visible rust, and lub the commutator and shaft.
The tender seems to be coming along nicely.
:D

If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed.
Edited by - trainman280 on February 15 2016 2:10:02 PM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  3:42:58 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
trainman, I never primed, but I had dripping and with the paint puddling in the molded details even when doing those other things. It doesn't help that I don't really have a good space for using a spray can. I work with a lot of colors too, so the price (it's $5 a can for Krylon, more for Rustoleum and the like) and the fact that you can't mix spraypaint to get just the right color... that tends to be off-putting. Another issue, though it doesn't come up much in model trains, is plastics where spraypaint is outright worthless (namely, the softer ones such as some toy parts and accessories are made of).

But getting good results with hand-painting is not impossible. It is quite doable. So I persist, and work to polish my skill. I'll never get better if I outright quit.

Disassembling that motor is a bad idea, since that would destroy the magnetic field. I'll certainly clean it though.

I'm glad you like how the tender build is progressing. Did you see the WIP scratchbuilt wheelset?

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Edited by - ZeldaTheSwordsman on February 15 2016 4:43:50 PM
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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  5:36:27 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
Zelda, it's a shame we can't have a real, hands-on spray paint clinic. Cause otherwise I don't think you will ever see how easy spray painting can be, while giving far superior results to brushing.
If the paint is puddling and running/dripping - you are applying it too heavy. It's not the paint's fault!

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  6:02:10 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
WHAT THE **** DOES "I HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE EVEN WHEN PUTTING ON THIN COATS" MEAN TO YOU BOZOS? DO YOUR SPRAYPAINT-WORSHIPPING BRAINS JUST FILTER IT OUT? HOW ABOUT THE PART ABOUT PRICE AND NOT HAVING A SPACE I CAN USE?!! DID YOU EVEN SEE THAT?!!
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Retired Alex
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  7:34:31 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Retired Alex to Buddylist
My mind is made up, don't confuse me with the facts.
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Chops124
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  8:55:23 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
THINK PINK!
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scsshaggy
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  10:21:22 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add scsshaggy to Buddylist
In this world of ours:
There are very good paint jobs done with a brush.
There are very good paint jobs done with an airbrush.
There are very good paint jobs done with a rattle can.

Therefore, there must be one and only one right way to apply paint. It is exceedingly important that we flame it out once and for all to arrive at The One True Method. After all, this is a hobby.

If we were deciding our eternal destiny or the fate of the planet, we could afford to relent and concede a point, but in a hobby where we're accountable to no one, a guy just has to make a stand.

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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 15 2016 :  10:27:24 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
quote:
WHAT THE **** DOES "I HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE EVEN WHEN PUTTING ON THIN COATS" MEAN TO YOU BOZOS?

Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - February 15 2016 :  6:02:10 PM



It means your thin coats are heavier than you think?

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  12:25:01 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Perhaps, although I have sometimes had it happen when just lightly misting on the paint. Admittedly, that's been with Transformers, a lot of which have molded details that are just magically good at trapping liquid.

As I've said, though, it's not just my bad experiences that put me off from using spray cans. Better technique would go a long way towards resolving that. But it wouldn't make the paint any cheaper or give me a good space for spraypainting.

And it's kind of irritating to hear spray cans touted as being the be-all end-all One True Method when I have sen with my eyes beautiful paintjobs that were done with brushes. Mine are not yet there, of course, but once the finish is on should hopefully be at least decent-looking.

Now, the paint in the first paint progress pic was definitely rubbish in a lot of spots. I actually sanded and redid after thinning the paint (you can kinda see that on the cylinders in the pic of the pilot base. It's now at the point where, in my experience, the finish will hide the strokes.

I'm sorry for snapping, I shouldn't take my frustration out on people like that.

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Chops124
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  01:45:25 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist

Did this with a rattle can.
!
Did this with a paint brush.
THINK PINK! I demand a general boycott of the TF until we see Zelda's pink
Mikado

Edited by - Chops124 on February 16 2016 01:51:11 AM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  02:17:44 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Chops, this is a Pacific :P I don't have a Mike.

Well, hopefully scratchbuilding the trucks for the tender doesn't take too long

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JNXT 7707
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  09:28:56 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add JNXT 7707 to Buddylist
quote:

And it's kind of irritating to hear spray cans touted as being the be-all end-all One True Method when I have sen with my eyes beautiful paintjobs that were done with brushes. Mine are not yet there, of course, but once the finish is on should hopefully be at least decent-looking.
........................
I'm sorry for snapping, I shouldn't take my frustration out on people like that.

Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - February 16 2016 :  12:25:01 AM



Zelda - first and foremost, as has been mentioned - this is a hobby. Hobbies are done for fun and relaxation, among other things...so by all means, if brushing paint does it for you, then use that technique to its fullest and enjoy your hobby to the fullest! Hey, I use brushes too! Can't do my stuff without them! But, I have found that spraying helped in my pursuit to get things looking as realistic as possible....and so, I feel the need to spread the word.
Spray paints have their limitations too, which is why I finally took the leap and tackled air-brushing. Kind of the best of both worlds, you can mix paints and use acrylics, but still avoid brushing. And the drying time is significantly reduced, to the point where you can recoat or apply decals within minutes, not hours or days.
So I use all three. All have pluses and minuses.

As for the frustration, don't worry about it. It's easy to misunderstand intent on a forum post without the usual communication cues like facial expression, tone of voice, etc. I think everyone is just trying to be helpful in their own way.

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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  10:05:53 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send catfordken a Yahoo! Message  Add catfordken to Buddylist
great to see problems solved,hopefully lol
catfordken
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Chops124
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  6:00:53 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
WHAT?? YOU MEAN TO SAY I STINK AT TRAIN
SPOTTING??? Well, you'd be correct.

You actually going to scratchbuild a tender?
Pretty amazing in itself. Or, if you want I think
I can snag an extra one from Henry, no charge.
You want? Lemme know. Think they're all coal,
and if I remember right, three axle trucks.

Edited by - Chops124 on February 16 2016 6:03:15 PM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 16 2016 :  6:43:07 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Train-spotting, and thread-title-reading :P

That does sound appealing, at least as far as the trucks go. The fewer wheelsets I have to make the better.

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Chops124
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 Posted - February 17 2016 :  11:26:02 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
I am too distracted by all that pink to think. I hit
Henry's stash Thursday and will let you know
what turns up. Three axle trucks for a tender.
Right. Got it. Uh-rah. Must...not...think...pink.

Your creation is totally mad, you know. Love it.
I am most pleased to contribute to this insanity.
Are you going to do pastel cars?

Edited by - Chops124 on February 17 2016 11:27:48 PM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 18 2016 :  12:30:46 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Yes, yes I am - this endeavor was inspired by the "Lady Lionel" set after all.. I have a thread here on them, showing a lilac hopper and a mint green reefer. I'm currently painting my set of Maxi-III well cars lilac.

I plan more pink locos as well.

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Chops124
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 Posted - February 18 2016 :  4:52:15 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
THIS IS AN OUTRAGE TO THE HOBBY! ZELDA MUST BE
STOPPED!! WHAT NEXT? LILAC ZEPHERS???

Just kidding.

Edited by - Chops124 on February 18 2016 4:53:14 PM
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - February 18 2016 :  10:04:54 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
Nah, I think maroon or Tuscan goes better with a pink loco when it comes to passenger stock.
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ZeldaTheSwordsman
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 Posted - March 10 2016 :  12:31:20 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist
So, finally getting back to making some progress on her. I have one of the tender trucks well underway:

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Barry
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 Posted - March 10 2016 :  10:40:22 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Barry to Buddylist
Pretty cool Zelda. I've never seen trucks scratch built before. Keep the story and the photos coming.
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Autobus Prime
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 Posted - March 10 2016 :  11:09:22 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Autobus Prime to Buddylist
quote:
So, finally getting back to making some progress on her. I have one of the tender trucks well underway:


Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 10 2016 :  12:31:20 AM



Oh wow!

This is reminding me of Herbert Lozier's cardboard locomotive project from his book MODEL MAKING. Lozier (who btw was an industrial model builder who worked for Raymond Loewy) fabricated all the pieces including spoked wheels, which had cardboard rims and pin spokes IIRC.

The loco was a unique and early Baldwin Crampton-type loco with a single pair of very large drivers.

Great book, I recommend it:

http://www.amazon.com/Model-Making-Herbert-Lozier/dp/0801952514

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trainman280
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 Posted - March 10 2016 :  9:13:20 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add trainman280 to Buddylist
ummmm...
Why don't you just use plastic wheel sets?
Those don't really look round.

If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed.
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Autobus Prime
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 Posted - March 11 2016 :  09:18:07 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Autobus Prime to Buddylist
quote:
ummmm...
Why don't you just use plastic wheel sets?
Those don't really look round.

Originally posted by trainman280 - March 10 2016 :  9:13:20 PM



He might intend to sand them or something. Anyway I kinda want to see how the scratchbuilt wheels work out.

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ZeldaTheSwordsman
Mikado


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 Posted - March 11 2016 :  12:15:25 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ZeldaTheSwordsman to Buddylist

Because I don't have any spare wheelsets. Yeah, yhe flanges aren't perfectly round, but I can correct that with a file or a sanding bit, The treads of the wheels are round, though, having been cut from a plastic cylinder, and that's the really important part.

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Edited by - toptrain on April 09 2016 6:13:07 PM
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